Eibach springs installed

Springs, Sway Bars, Shocks, Brakes, Etc
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Location: 2011 Camaro 2LT/RS CGM Oklahoma
PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:47 pm
This may be a future mod for me then sorry for jacking the thread.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:20 pm
rtcat600man wrote:I would contact Eibach before cutting the bump stops. If I remember correctly Eibach does not recommend cutting the stops. I will check the install instructions when I get up from the computer. IF I should find anything different I shall update you on what I find.



This is probably a mute point now but I was going through and saw this and wondered. I know when I installed my Eibach, the directions called for the bump stops to be cut. I was a little unsettled about it but the guy who was doing this for me, another C5 owner of a SS and who had installed his at a Mod Day over in Ohio, they were cutting the stops.

The following post I got from C5.com and its from Pfadt Racing on their particular spring application and it makes sense and the way it was explained to me, the lowering springs your taking away from the travel on the wheels when they hit bumps etc.... so the cut actually compensates to allow for the travel the wheels need with the dampers. I also checked some other forums where guys didn't cut and wish that they had. I'm sure there may be some who haven't that can attest for their ride characteristics and quality. I know my ride seemed OK with the springs but it got so much better after I had my bushings timed. Also the sways make all the difference in the world when it comes to handling on these cars and I often suggest the sways first when caught between a 'This or That' mod on the suspension. If its about the looks, then yes the springs is the way to go but if you want the handling right off the cuff, sways is the ticket until you can lower and no alignment is required with the sways as with the lowering springs. Anyway, as I stated in my opening, this is all probably a mute point at this time but here is what Pfadt Racing had to say about cutting the bump stops.


I'd like to explain why we reccommend cutting the bumpstops in our procedure. Our Pfadt drop springs provide a 1.25" drop approximately. As a result of this change in static ride height, the usable region of the damper travel is offset, to be approximately 1.25" lower. The Camaro has a very limited amount of bump travel to begin with, before contacting the OEM bumpstops. We recommend to trim 1" from the bumpstop in our installation procedure to give you back that 1.00" of damper travel, that is not influenced by the added spring rate of the bump rubber. We leave some bump stop in place to give a rising rate on big hits. Because dampers function by resisting the shaft velocity, this offset operating region has no negative effects on the component durability, or performance.

This conclusion was made from testing, and experiencing harsh bump characteristics that some have mentioned, who have not cut them. This of course, is just our position in regards to our own product installation. I hope that helps clarify the reasoning.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 7:07 pm
Thanks for posting this up. HHHMMMMM. Making wonder what was done with mine. Guess I am going to make a mental note and check them the next time I have a wheel off and see what is going on in there.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 7:59 pm
rtcat600man wrote:Thanks for posting this up. HHHMMMMM. Making wonder what was done with mine. Guess I am going to make a mental note and check them the next time I have a wheel off and see what is going on in there.


Yea, I didn't want to cut mine but the instructions said to do it and the guy who was doing the installation explained it to me, pretty much what the guy from Pfadt said. I asked what if I wanted to reverse the process and OldSchoolCamaro told me one once I lowered it, I'd never want to go back to factory ride height and he's right on that one but again, I wanted to know if in fact I did, what do I do about the bumps stops and he told me I'd have to buy some more which should be that much in cost. I've seen them and there is really nothing much to the bump stops. Took me the longest to part with my galvanized suit cases that Chevy used for mufflers but I let those go back in August after sitting in the garage since February of 2010.

I know my car rides pretty darn good considering its lowered and yes there is a trade off or sacrifice when riding closer to the pavement but its worth the look that you have and the dynamics that have been changed for the better in handling! Everyone I know says their cars ride a little stiffer but the to me, to me the greatest thing done after lowering, after the alignment was riding lowered for a couple of weeks and then getting those bushings timed and then riding to see how smooth the ride was.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:36 am
chozn4service wrote:
rtcat600man wrote:Thanks for posting this up. HHHMMMMM. Making wonder what was done with mine. Guess I am going to make a mental note and check them the next time I have a wheel off and see what is going on in there.


Yea, I didn't want to cut mine but the instructions said to do it and the guy who was doing the installation explained it to me, pretty much what the guy from Pfadt said. I asked what if I wanted to reverse the process and OldSchoolCamaro told me one once I lowered it, I'd never want to go back to factory ride height and he's right on that one but again, I wanted to know if in fact I did, what do I do about the bumps stops and he told me I'd have to buy some more which should be that much in cost. I've seen them and there is really nothing much to the bump stops. Took me the longest to part with my galvanized suit cases that Chevy used for mufflers but I let those go back in August after sitting in the garage since February of 2010.

I know my car rides pretty darn good considering its lowered and yes there is a trade off or sacrifice when riding closer to the pavement but its worth the look that you have and the dynamics that have been changed for the better in handling! Everyone I know says their cars ride a little stiffer but the to me, to me the greatest thing done after lowering, after the alignment was riding lowered for a couple of weeks and then getting those bushings timed and then riding to see how smooth the ride was.




:x2:
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for my build check here...http://bowtiev6.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=57 ..........................................................TEAM LLT

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:31 pm
Okay syspension guru's. Im going to install my Eibach springs and the BMR tunnel brace this sunday finnaly.I rented the spring compressor at auto zone. I have the pro kit. 1" in front,1.3 " in the rear drop. Do I or Don't I cut the bump stops? If I do, 1/2" or 1"? Thanks.
2012 yellow and black Convertable SS Camaro,2SS,RS, 6PD manual ,got my killer bee , now the mods start all over again.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:09 pm
Mine were cut.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 7:23 pm
Well I finnaly got the pro Ebach springs installed and the BMR tunnel brace. Took me all afternoon. The instructions said not to cut the bumpers, so I did not.Got to get it aligned some time this week. But for the short trip I did back to auto zone to return the spring compressor Im totally pleased at the ride, LOOK and newer found handiling complementing the Ebach sway bars too! The ride, while stiffer is not harsh on the roads up here in the GA MTNS. My RS now feels like some of my past Corvettes I owned .Can't wait to get it aligned so I can take it up Blood MTN and scare some mini coopers,LOL. Next will be the under frame BMR frame braces that attach to the BMR tunnel brace. Then I hope ,I HOPE? I can get a used set of rear 20" rims and have them widened and install the 305's. I HOPE,LOL. Got to order the intake insulator spacer first though. Hit my budget for the next three months,LOL. :cheers:

P.S. I wonder if my hitch ,while ugly to some, a needed item for me to tow my bikes if need be. Acts like a rear frame brace also?
2012 yellow and black Convertable SS Camaro,2SS,RS, 6PD manual ,got my killer bee , now the mods start all over again.
2013 Yamaha STRYKER
2007 Yamaha Roadliner S,"113" cu. inches,F/S

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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:25 am
Location: Indy
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:03 pm
I would seriously think about getting your bushings timed now that you've lowered the car. It improves the ride so much.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:08 am
chozn4service wrote:I would seriously think about getting your bushings timed now that you've lowered the car. It improves the ride so much.


If you mean looseing up the control arm bolts,ect. After the car is setteled on its weight, yes I will have them do that. I did the rear,but I can't get enough cleareance to do the front because space is limited being its low in front. Even the instructions tell you to do it. Ill make sure the tech today does what I want to be done ,so I won't get :sex: :shock:
2012 yellow and black Convertable SS Camaro,2SS,RS, 6PD manual ,got my killer bee , now the mods start all over again.
2013 Yamaha STRYKER
2007 Yamaha Roadliner S,"113" cu. inches,F/S
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